East Fjords: Iceland's Quiet Coast

The East Fjords (Austurland) are the least visited section of the Ring Road — and for that reason one of the most rewarding stretches to drive. Deep fjords cut inland, small fishing villages sit at their heads, and the winding coastal road offers constant views of mountains dropping into dark water. This is Iceland before it became a mainstream destination.

Getting There

By car: Egilsstaðir, the East Fjords’ main town, is approximately 700km from Reykjavík via the Ring Road. Allow 8–9 hours driving. Most travellers reach it as part of the Ring Road circuit.

By air: Eagle Air (eagleair.is) flies Reykjavík Domestic Airport to Egilsstaðir Airport (EGS) in approximately 1 hour. Fares from approximately ISK 9,000–18,000 one way.

By ferry: The Smyril Line ferry (smyrilline.com) runs from Hirtshals (Denmark) via Tórshavn (Faroe Islands) to Seyðisfjörður. This is a practical route for those bringing their own vehicle from Europe. Journey from Denmark takes approximately 2.5 days. Prices vary significantly by season and cabin type.

Seyðisfjörður

The most visually distinctive town in Iceland. A deep fjord, multicoloured wooden houses, a blue-painted church street (rainbow street), waterfalls visible on the hillsides above, and the distinctive Norwegian-influenced timber architecture of the trading era. The town is a working artist community — several studios and galleries operate year-round.

Seyðisfjörður is 27km from Egilsstaðir on Route 93. The approach over the mountain (Fjarðarheiði) is dramatic — the fjord opens below you as you descend. In winter the pass is sometimes closed; check road.is.

Tækniminjasafn Austurlands (Technical Museum of East Iceland) — Covers the history of the telecommunications and electrification of Iceland. Free. Modest but interesting.

Borgarfjörður Eystri (Bakkagerði)

A tiny village (approximately 100 people) at the end of a fjord 70km north of Egilsstaðir. Reason to go: the puffin colony immediately above the harbour is among the most accessible in Iceland. A boardwalk path leads to the cliff-top nesting area from June–August. Entry free.

The approach road through Dyrfjöll (Door Mountains) passes dramatic basalt mountain scenery. Lindarbakki turf house is the only inhabited turf house in Iceland still used as a primary residence. The fjord is surrounded by pink rhyolite mountains — unusual geology compared to the black basalt dominant elsewhere.

The Ring Road Through the East Fjords

The section of Route 1 between Höfn and Egilsstaðir is 270km of winding coastal road through a dozen separate fjords. Key stops:

• Djúpivogur — Small harbour village with the Eggin í Gleðivík (Eggs of Merry Bay) sculpture — 34 stone eggs representing local bird species. Free. Good lunch stop.
• Breiðdalsvík — Quiet fishing village in a broad valley. Good overnight base.
• Fáskrúðsfjörður — Has Iceland’s only French-language street signs, a legacy of the French fishing crews who wintered here in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The French Hospital museum covers this history.
• Stöðvarfjörður — Petra’s Stone Collection (Steinasafn Petru) — a remarkable private mineral and stone collection assembled over 65 years, spread through a house and garden. Entry approximately ISK 1,500 adult.
• Reyðarfjörður — Iceland’s largest fjord. An aluminium smelter (Alcoa) dominates the view — a reminder of modern Iceland’s industrial economy.

Egilsstaðir

The East Fjords’ main town (population approximately 2,500), on the banks of the river Lagarfljót. Not particularly attractive, but the regional hub with the best services — petrol, supermarkets, hospital, and the Egilsstaðir Airport.

Lagarfljót Lake — The lake next to Egilsstaðir has its own Loch Ness-type legend: Lagarfljótsormurinn, a serpent said to have lived in the lake for centuries. Sightings are reported periodically. The 140km-long lake is real; the serpent’s status is contested.

Hallormsstaðaskógur — Iceland’s largest forest, on the eastern shore of Lagarfljót. A 15-minute drive from Egilsstaðir. Iceland has very few trees (the country was largely deforested by Viking-era settlers); this planted birch and conifer forest is unusual enough to be worth noting.

Where to Stay

Hótel Aldan (Seyðisfjörður) — The most charming hotel in the region, housed in several heritage buildings in Seyðisfjörður town centre. Doubles from approximately ISK 30,000–45,000.

Gistihúsið Lake Hotel Egilsstaðir — Solid mid-range in Egilsstaðir. Doubles from approximately ISK 28,000–40,000.

Wilderness Center — Farm accommodation on the highlands plateau west of Egilsstaðir. Used as a base for highland horse-riding and wilderness day trips. Doubles from approximately ISK 35,000–55,000 including breakfast.

Where to Eat

Skaftfell Bistro (Seyðisfjörður) — Attached to a cultural centre. Good coffee, soups, and light meals. Mains ISK 2,200–3,800.

Við Lónið (Egilsstaðir) — Reliable restaurant at the lake hotel. Lamb, fish, and burgers. Mains approximately ISK 2,800–4,500.