Westfjords: Iceland's Remote Northwest

The Westfjords are a peninsula in Iceland’s northwest corner, connected to the mainland by an 8km-wide isthmus at Bjarkalundur. They’re Iceland’s oldest landscape — heavily glaciated and eroded over millions of years into a deeply indented fjord system. They’re also the least visited region of Iceland, with fewer tourists per kilometre than anywhere else in the country. The road network is limited, the distances are long, and the payoff is extraordinary.

Getting There

By car: Approximately 450km from Reykjavík to Ísafjörður via Route 1 and Route 60. Allow 6–7 hours minimum with the mountain pass road. Route 60 is paved but passes several mountain passes — check road.is before driving in shoulder season.

By air: Eagle Air (eagleair.is) flies Reykjavík Domestic Airport to Ísafjörður Airport (IFJ) in approximately 45 minutes. Fares from approximately ISK 10,000–20,000 one way depending on availability. Several flights weekly.

By ferry: The Baldur ferry runs from Stykkishólmur (Snæfellsnes) to Brjánslækur in the southern Westfjords — a 2.5-hour crossing across Breiðafjörður bay. This is the classic Westfjords entry route for those coming from the south. Check seatours.is for timetables and prices (approximately ISK 3,500 per person, ISK 12,000–16,000 per car).

Dynjandi Waterfall

The Westfjords’ defining attraction. A tiered waterfall that drops 100m in a broad fan-shaped cascade — it widens from 7m at the top to 30m at the base. Seven smaller falls in the gorge below it lead up to the main drop. The approach walk (approximately 30 minutes return) passes each of the smaller falls before reaching the base of Dynjandi.

Free entry. Accessible June–September without difficulty. A small campsite sits at the car park. Allow 1.5–2 hours for the walk and proper viewing.

Látrabjarg Bird Cliffs

At the far western tip of the Westfjords, the Látrabjarg cliffs are 14km long, up to 440m high, and home to millions of seabirds — razorbills, guillemots, gannets, and Iceland’s most accessible puffin colony. Puffins here are famously tolerant of close approach (they burrow in the cliff-top turf immediately behind the path). Walking season June–August.

It takes 3–4 hours to drive from Ísafjörður to Látrabjarg. Patreksfjörður is the nearest overnight base (approximately 1.5 hours from the cliffs). No entry fee. The road to the cliffs is gravel and narrow in sections.

Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Iceland’s most remote nature reserve — accessible only by boat from Ísafjörður (no roads). Uninhabited since the 1950s, Hornstrandir is hiking territory: dramatic coastal cliffs, arctic fox encounters at close range (they’ve had no hunting pressure for decades), and complete solitude. Day trips and multi-day hiking packages depart from Ísafjörður.

West Tours (westtours.is) in Ísafjörður is the main operator. Day trip to Hornvík bay approximately ISK 12,500–16,000 adult. Multi-day packages vary. Hiking season is June–August; weather can be severe even in summer.

Ísafjörður

The Westfjords’ ‘capital’ — a town of approximately 3,000 people built on a spit of land jutting into Ísafjarðardjúp fjord. The old harbour area has several 18th-century trading-era timber buildings, now protected. The Westfjords Heritage Museum (Byggðasafn Vestfjarða) covers local history and the herring industry. Entry approximately ISK 1,500 adult.

Rauðasandur Red Sand Beach

On the south coast of the Westfjords, Rauðasandur is a striking reddish-orange beach — the colour comes from crushed scallop shells in the sand rather than volcanic rock. The road to it (Route 614) is a gravel mountain track — passable in summer but check conditions. The beach itself is wide, empty, and extraordinary on a clear day.

Where to Stay

Hotel Ísafjörður — The main hotel in the region. Central location in Ísafjörður. Doubles from approximately ISK 30,000–45,000.

Hótel Flatey — An island hotel in Breiðafjörður, accessible by ferry. Small, distinctive, and remote. Doubles from approximately ISK 35,000–52,000 in summer. Closed outside summer season.

Campsite at Dynjandi (seasonal, approximately ISK 1,800 per person) and at various locations through the Westfjords. Self-sufficient camping with no facilities in many areas.

Where to Eat

Tjöruhúsið (Ísafjörður) — One of Iceland’s best fish restaurants. Operated from an old warehouse, all-you-can-eat fish buffet using the day’s catch. Approximately ISK 6,500 adult. Book ahead — it sells out. Seasonal (summer only).

Við Pollinn (Ísafjörður) — More accessible year-round option. Lamb, fish, and burgers. Mains approximately ISK 2,800–4,800.