Christmas in Iceland is quiet, dark and unusually warm in feeling. Reykjavík is lit by thousands of lights through the short days, children get a small gift every night from 12 December, and most of the country shuts on Christmas Eve for a family dinner and a stack of new books. If you are planning December travel more broadly, our Iceland in December guide covers weather, prices and the wider season. This page focuses on the Christmas traditions, the markets and the closures that catch visitors out.
The 13 Yule Lads Calendar (12 December to 6 January)
Iceland does not have one Santa. It has 13 Yule Lads (Jólasveinar), mischievous sons of the troll Grýla and her husband Leppalúði, who come down from the mountains one at a time. Children put a shoe on the windowsill each night from 11 December, and the first lad’s gift appears on the morning of 12 December. A lad leaves a lad leaves a small gift if they have behaved, or a rotting potato if not. The lads are named after their habits, and they arrive in this order:
| Arrives (night of) | Yule Lad | Habit |
|---|---|---|
| 12 Dec | Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote Clod) | Harasses sheep |
| 13 Dec | Giljagaur (Gully Gawk) | Steals milk foam |
| 14 Dec | Stúfur (Stubby) | Steals pans to eat the crust |
| 15 Dec | Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker) | Licks wooden spoons |
| 16 Dec | Pottaskefill (Pot-Scraper) | Scrapes leftover food from pots |
| 17 Dec | Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker) | Hides under beds for bowls |
| 18 Dec | Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer) | Slams doors at night |
| 19 Dec | Skyrgámur (Skyr-Gobbler) | Eats all the skyr |
| 20 Dec | Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage-Swiper) | Steals sausages |
| 21 Dec | Gluggagægir (Window-Peeper) | Peeks through windows |
| 22 Dec | Gáttaþefur (Doorway-Sniffer) | Follows the smell of laufabrauð |
| 23 Dec | Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook) | Hooks meat from the rafters |
| 24 Dec | Kertasníkir (Candle-Stealer) | Follows children for their candles |
Each lad is said to arrive on the night before the date shown, and the gifts appear in the shoe the next morning. They leave in the same order from Christmas Day, with the last lad departing on 6 January. Their cat, the Yule Cat (Jólakötturinn), eats anyone who has not received new clothes before Christmas, which is why Icelanders traditionally give socks and sweaters.
As a visitor you can see the lads in shop windows and at Hafnarfjörður’s Christmas village, and the National Museum of Iceland usually hosts a daily Yule Lad visit for families in the run-up to Christmas. Confirm times on the museum’s site, since the programme changes each year.
Jólabókaflóð: the Christmas Book Flood
Iceland publishes most of its new books between October and December. A catalogue, the Bókatíðindi, is delivered free to every home in November, and families choose books together. The tradition is to give books on Christmas Eve and then read in bed with chocolate or malt and orange (Malt og Appelsín). Bookshops in Reykjavík stay busy into the evening of 23 December, and the Eymundsson shops on Skólavörðustígur and Austurstræti are good places to look for translated Icelandic fiction and children’s books. Poetry readings and author events run in cafés through December.
Christmas Markets: Hafnarfjörður and Reykjavík
Hafnarfjörður Christmas Village (Jólaþorpið) sits on Thorsplan in the lava town just south of Reykjavík. It has typically run from mid-November to 23 December, open on weekends with extended hours nearer Christmas, and it brings wooden huts, crafts, hot chocolate, live music and appearances by the Yule Lads. The 2026 dates were not yet published when we wrote this, so check the official Visit Reykjavík page for the village before you go. Bus 1 from central Reykjavík takes about 20 minutes, and it pairs well with an afternoon in town before dark.
Reykjavík has no single huge market. The main focus is Austurvöllur, in front of the parliament, where the Oslo Christmas tree, a gift from the city of Oslo, is lit at the start of Advent. Ingólfstorg and the old town streets add seasonal stalls and lights in many years, but programmes vary, so treat Ingólfstorg as a place to check rather than a guaranteed market. The Kolaportið flea market by the harbour runs a Christmas edition (Jólaportið) at weekends, with food stalls, wool goods and secondhand books. Typical hours are around 11:00 to 17:00 or 18:00, as of 2025.
What Is Closed on 24, 25 and 26 December
Christmas in Iceland is not a good time to improvise, because services shrink fast. Treat the following as a guide and check the Visit Reykjavík holiday opening hours page for the current year. Our Iceland public holidays guide lists the bank holiday dates for 2026 and 2027.
- 23 December (Þorláksmessa): shops stay open late, and it is the traditional day for fermented skate lunches. Buy everything you need for the next three days.
- 24 December (Christmas Eve): the holiday starts at 13:00. Supermarkets and shops close early, and Icelanders sit down to dinner when the church bells ring at 18:00. Many restaurants close or serve set menus, and tours often cancel. Reykjavík pools usually open in the morning and close at midday.
- 25 December: the quietest day of the year. Shops, most restaurants, pools and Strætó buses are closed or on minimal service. Hotel restaurants and petrol station shops are your fallback.
- 26 December: partly open. Some pools reopen in the afternoon, tours resume, and Reykjavík restaurants return, though regional areas may stay shut.
- Vínbúðin: state liquor stores close early on 24 December and stay closed on the 25th and often the 26th. See our alcohol in Iceland guide and buy ahead.
Stock up on food at the Bónus or Krónan supermarkets on 23 December (our grocery stores guide explains the chains). Keflavík Airport runs throughout, but Flybus and domestic schedules thin on 24 and 25 December.
Daylight, Weather and Aurora at Christmas
Reykjavík gets about 4 hours of daylight around 21 December, with sunrise near 11:20 and sunset near 15:30. The sun barely climbs above the horizon, so photographers get a long golden light. Reykjavík highs average 1 to 3°C, often with wind and sleet. If you plan to drive, read our Iceland winter driving guide, because short days and icy roads make self-drive ambitious.
The long nights are the best reason to visit. Book a Northern Lights tour on at least two or three nights, and check Northern Lights tour vs self-drive if you are unsure. Many operators reduce or cancel departures on 24 December, so schedule for 23 or 26 December. You can also browse Reykjavík tours for ice caves, Golden Circle and whale watching, most of which run between 26 December and the New Year.
Where to Stay and What to Book First
Prices rise sharply between 22 December and 2 January, and the best central rooms sell out months ahead. Compare hotels in Reykjavík and read our where to stay in Reykjavík guide for neighbourhoods. Book your accommodation and aurora tour first, then fill in the rest.
After Christmas, the city turns toward New Year. Our New Year’s Eve in Reykjavík guide explains the bonfires, fireworks and how to book a table. The season ends on 6 January with the Thirteenth Night (Þrettándinn) bonfires and the departure of the last Yule Lad.